Back to the main theme . . .

That article I mentioned before was in an old copy of Norwegian Textile Letter, so I looked up other copies to see if they had anything more to say about Krokbragd, Danskbrogd, Boundweave or anything else of interest to my long term project, and I found the latest edition has two articles relating to classes in (Scandinavian) WWL weaving. “Fantastic!” I thought, until I read them.
The first one’s title is “Diamond Twill Woven on a Warp-weighted Loom”. Just the thing I’m looking for. (Although I do know where to find how to do it, I need to buy the book, and having recently forked out an eye-watering sum for Marta Hoffman’s book, and having plenty of other things to do before I really need it, it can wait.) In any case I have read that the Icelandic method, is a recent development, and I gather from other people, that it uses additional (more than two) lines of weights, which also indicates that it was not the method used in antiquity. Still, it would still be interesting to find out how they do it.
The introduction to the first article is even more promising, saying that it was written in response to many inquiries about their investigation into diamond twill weave on the WWL. But I’ve nearly finished reading it and despite mentioning ‘this technique’, an archaeolgical find, and a lot of talk about choosing yarns, and how exciting it is, there’s a hint that she’s not going to show or say how they’re doing it. I can’t say I blame her, but it’s a little disappointing.

There is some technical information, but it’s rather surprising. The yarn they chose, appears to be made from very long staple fleece, not really appropriate for the period they are trying to emulate, but. I presume it was the closest they could get in worsted. Only 10 epcm seems a bit coarse, but maybe that’s the thread count of the garment they are studying. 50g per thread, and they say that’s ‘light’. Then some information about heddle rods and threading. Interestingly they put sometimes 2 and sometimes 1 thread per individual heald, in a similar way to that shown in Penelope Walton Rogers’ Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England 450-700.

Most annoying though, the author says that “With the help of Marta Hoffmann’s The Warp Weighted Loom, we figured out the procedure, . . .”  It does refer to the Icelandic technique, but not a hint as to what that actually entails. In fact, it’s a good job I didn’t buy it just to find out how do twill, or I’d’ve been bitterly disappointed.

In many ways the second article was more interesting, but was not about twill at all.

On re-reading this I realise that the link is barely distinguishable, so here it is again.

Norwegian Textile Letter


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